Food For Thought: Authenticity vs. Cultural Appropriation

PR and I go back and forth on this a lot: he has a small, but justified moral objection to the name of this blog. He sees it as appropriative, since I don’t speak the language (well). I see the title, in the words of the inimitable, irascible Aaron Sorkin, in one of his most underrated series: “[as] a tacit admission of guilt and a silent act of contrition and that’s what’s required here.” I know I’m being bad, I know I’m taking beans from the witch’s garden, so I’m apologizing right up front for being the worst definition of a “gaijin.”

…But the food is So. Damn. Tasty.

Anthony Bourdain (my other husband? I have so many!) brought up the same question of authenticity and letting the horde in at the gate in this article from Salon from 2014. It’s an interesting read and codifies a lot of my concerns about what I’m doing.

momofuku david chang
But the food is still So. Damn Tasty!

In my defense:

“David Chang is authentic for sure in that he is sincerely offering the most kick*ss food around.”  – Alexander Chee

Against me stands the question:

“…At what point [does] cultural appropriation become exploitative inside a global economy that profits off the backs of brown bodies that consumers don’t like to talk about, especially when their mouths are full with exquisite morsels of deliciousness…Must good food also be ethically ‘good’? Or is it only required to be ‘tasty’?” – Paula Young Lee

I don’t have the answers. I’m just trying to make the food that I love; food I can’t get anywhere around here. I do so with my head bowed. I pray that’s enough.

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On Martha and David and Childhood Heroes

 

I grew up in a somewhat…chaotic home. We were poor, but we lived in a huge house with tons of books and had airs above our station. Like, I was chronically underweight as a kid (ah, those were the days), but damn if I wasn’t near the top of my class every year! Intelligence was prized above appearances, which caused a lot of friction between me and my parents. Why, you ask? Well, you see, we lived in a very small, socially stratified town. Either you had, or you had not, and like any 7-year-old, I didn’t understand why I “hadn’t.” As such, I got bit by the “uppity” bug really early.

“My friends get to go to <Insert Local Resort Town Here>, why can’t we go?”

“Because we’re not that kind of people.”

“It looks really cute! There are ponies!”

“We’re too poor. We’re not in that phase of life.”

“Well, can I have a few friends over to visit?”

“No! Are you crazy? Do you want them seeing the way we live?”

*blinks, looks around, sees a spotless Victorian mansion* “…Yes?”

But what I lacked in social contact, I made up for with Martha. Oh, Martha! With your infinite resources to make mozzarella from scratch, create succulent wreaths and host Thanksgiving in your Party Barn! I’d lose myself in a world where everyone was rich, and polite, and helpful, and creative – not raucous, and secretive, and judgmental, and weird.

I still find the old MSL extremely relaxing, almost in an ASMR way. In fact, and this sounds completely counterintuitive, I often find myself putting her on to pump myself up before I clean – I have anxiety and depression, so cleaning the house is a daunting task. Martha keeps me from feeling overwhelmed, with the added benefit of inspiration! (P.S. I highly suggest you seek out the original MSL episodes if you are similarly afflicted. I’d share my source, but I really don’t want them to get DMCA’d. They are easy enough to find, if you look.)

So here I am on the flip side of childhood and I have my cool Permanent Roomate. He’s restaurant-trained, inventive, and he loves food. He’s taught me a lot and I him, with my crazy, weeby ways. And we both have a minor major crush on David Chang. So the following clip warmed the cockles of my jaded, Millennial heart: http://www.marthastewart.com/1002182/pork-bun-recipe-chef-david-chang (Oh, Martha! Why must you gate your videos? Youtube will not hurt you, I promise!).

Apparently, Martha is a giant David Chang stan, as well she should be! Perhaps she should follow my Pinterest Board: David Chang is a God and I want to have a beer with him.

So, to Martha Stewart, who infused my fraught childhood with her WASP-y magic, I salute you! And as for David Chang, well, if you ever venture to the frozen north, I owe you a beer.

 

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Apropos of nothing…

…Here’s a Shokugeki no Soma screen!

2016-09-15-19-36-16

 

If anyone’s wondering what the fabled SwampWitch looks like, imagine Shiomi crossed with Isami Aldini, with a healthy dollop of Nao Sadatsuka thrown in (whatever happened to her? Guess I’ll finally have to crack open the manga!)

But this scene looked so much like PR and me, I had to laugh. Gosh, I love this show!

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Welcome to the crooked world of Poor Gaijin Fusion!

sushi

Hello there, cats and kittens! My name is Swamp Witch and this is my humble addition to the oversaturated food blog market! This story, however, is not one of stay-at-home businesswoman in a smart sundress, carefully curating a list of vegan brownie recipes from her achingly beautiful kitchen. In the Little Crooked House, everything’s…well…a little crooked!

I started developing my shameless hipster fusion recipes after returning to an early love of anime. Yes, folks, I was one of those first-generation anime nudniks who devoured bad dubs and traded tapes (at least, I would have, if my parents hadn’t been convinced these “cartoons” were subliminally telling me to murder the family and go turn tricks in Akihabara). I abandoned the habit in my 20’s, in favor of having a social life, but now that I’m in my 30’s and Crunchyroll exists, I am free to let my freak flag fly!

It was an episode of Kimi ni Todoke that lit the weeb-cuisine flame:

kimi ni todoke miso ramen

Immediately, I was “WHAT THIS HOW GET?”

As it turns out, the answers were “Miso Ramen, you dolt,” and “Not easily.” The Little Crooked House exists outside of time and space miles away from any ramen-ya or even an Asian market. If I wanted ramen that didn’t come in a styrofoam cup, I was going to have to roll up my sleeves and cook it myself. Leaning heavily on J. Kenji López-Alt’s recipe at Serious Eats, Permanent Roommate and I toiled for two days to create something semi-authentic (did I mention PM is an ex-line cook of ten years? It helps, kind of a lot). The results were insanely satisfying, if not photogenic:

2014-08-08 19.37.07-4

From there it was a quick jump to homemade miso soup, okonomiyaki, dumplings, curry bread, etc. By the time I started making my own kimchi, I was a lost cause. I enjoy these flavors and can understand the principles used in their creation. I am not a natural cook like PM – I learned a small handful of Depression-era skills from my mother: Insert Cream-of-Whatever Can A into Casserole Dish B is the extent of my culinary expertise. Simmering, marinating, cutting and fermenting? That I get.

So from here on out, I’m going to be showing some of the weirdsmobile recipes I’ve developed over the last few years, in an attempt to use these expensive imported ingredients mix the flavors that I love into new contexts, perhaps some even PM can enjoy!  After all, isn’t hamfistedly fusing traditional cuisines, regardless of culture or context, the birthright of every jaded hipster, since the time of the Kogi Taco Truck (they got it right; other folks…)?

I hope you enjoy the rambling, the food, and maybe try something new. From The Little Crooked house to you..

EAT THE FOOD!

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